Tuesday, June 13, 2006

The Good Fork




...Any excuse to go out to eat! The sun is out. It's the second Tuesday of the fourth month of a new moon. I woke up. I will find a reason. This past week my husband got a new job, which, by law, mandates that I must take him out to dinner.
So I asked him, "Honey, I want to take you out on a date to celebrate your new job! I have place in mind but is there anywhere you want to go?"
"Um, no, not really, hey, yeah, let's go to Momofuku" he answers.
EHHHHH! (Insert game show buzzer error noise) Wrong answer. We have eaten there on more than one occasion. I have a lot of ground to cover and a very limited amount of time and finances to do so. This was no time to repeat a place.
Because I am a twisted human being, I have been plotting the precise time and event that we would warrant a visit to The Good Fork. Located in the "heart of Red Hook, Brooklyn" it had to be the right weather to sit in the cozy ship-like dining room and a night when I did not mind being holed-up in a Brooklyn neighborhood. I could also afford to treat at this place, as the price is right. I informed my husband that we would not be going to Momofuku, again, but spending a night in Red Hook for some celebratory fare with an Asian influence. (That is as "technical" as I am getting on this one, kids). If you want the back-story on The Good Fork read the gazillion reviews it has gotten since it's "quiet" opening recently. Take a moment and google it. (Go ahead, open another window and leave mine open. I will wait...)

I was like a giddy schoolgirl as we pulled up to the restaurant. We had a nine o'clock reservation on a Friday night. Upon entering the teeny dining room I politely paused to be greeted by a host/server/anyone. They were busy. I made my way to the next natural spot, the bar with the window into the kitchen behind it. The bartender greeted me warmly and soon the correct individual sorted my reservation. I was offered a beverage while I waited for my table to be cleared and set. When I inquired about the wines by the glass the lovely bartender, whose name escapes me, gave me wonderful descriptions and then, drum roll please, OFFERED TO LET ME HAVE A TASTE OF THE TWO. (It really does not take much, people.) By the time I sampled my wines and I was offered seating in one of the two cozy booths at the front of the restaurant where I could watch EVERYTHING.
We made our way to the booth with the one menu I had gotten at the bar. Our server immediately appeared in front of us and inquired if we were ready to order. We told her we needed another menu. This seemed to throw her off. She was BRAND NEW. Now, normally, this is totally fine. Like I told her, "no worries". For some crazy reason, maybe because I really wanted to have a nice evening out with my husband, it did not bother me as much as it might have. She was new and she was FRAZZLED. There was no breaking her tension. She was, well, "really busy?!"
After blurting out that she was new and did not, AND I QUOTE, "know the menu", I asked her about a glass of wine. Still no decision on the Malbec or the Rioja, I inquired about the Rosé and my server said, "People like it, they order it. I'm new and I don't know about it. It's really 70's, but Rosé is really in right now."
WHAT?!! I do not mind honesty. However, it is all in the delivery. Furthermore, I don't care if drinking Rosé cures cancer and grants you eternal life. Being "really in right now" is not a reason why I should order it. The ONLY THING that saved her life at that moment was offering to bring me a taste. She did, it was ok, and I ordered the Rioja.
While our server was away another individual approached our table and attempted to take our appetizer order. My husband asked for some recommendations; I was glad he did do because, frankly, I wanted somebody to be engaged at this point. He listed the entire menu, not in order, but what seemed genuinely out of excitement for the dishes. Some polite banter ensued and our app order was placed.
As soon as he was gone our "O.S." (Original server) reappeared with my (sour) Rioja. Having sampled all the wines and, well, the insanity of our server, I really did not feel comfortable sending it back. Partially because I was pretty confidant that it would not return until I was finished with dinner. Moving on, she was not informed that we ordered apps. It happens. She took the rest of our order and was off.
One of the apps we had is not on the website menu- I apologize as I did not write it down (I am not getting PAID. When Ameliah Express is my dining partner maybe then I will write and eat). It was a squash blossom tempura with arugula and ummmmmm, something like membrillo and nuts (blushing). It was DEEEELISH. The pork and chive dumplings were solid pork dumplings. Juicy and firm, with great texture.
What felt like fifteen minutes after we finished our apps the frazzled server-lady came and asked if we got our apps already and if we were done. Then, without offering us more to drink, ran away. MY HEART SANK because that meant one thing to me- and I could have been wrong- she did not "fire" our main courses yet! Meaning, it would be a bit before the next course. We finally nabbed a server and got some bread. Even though everyone who was sat after us already had bread.
Our main courses arrived and I knew I had to start pacing my wine. I had two choices: 1. Drink R-E-A-L-L-Y slow and stretch what little sour Rioja I had left through both plates OR 2. Eat the fish and finish the wine and see how long it takes to get the attention of a server to BUY MORE BOOZE and have a whole glass for the half a plate of pork I was to eat.
I chose option number two. I was in a gambling mood, what can I say? SIDEBAR: If she was around she probably could have sold me three glasses of wine with my dinner.
The first entree I dug my fork into was the pan-seared scallops with shrimp scallion pancakes, asparagus, and soy vinaigrette. The scallops where done just right and the whole dish was harmonious. The pancake did not overpower the delicacy scallop. I wish I had eaten the whole thing instead of splitting it and having the slow braised Berkshire pork with polenta and grilled scallions. My desire for swine got the best of me. We were both disappointed in the dish I would have liked four grilled scallions instead of two. I liked the color they added to the dish as well as the flavor. They brightened the rather muddled polenta/pork (the Berk Pig itself, being a characteristically more "porky" pig). Alas, I did manage to find someone to bring me a glass of Malbec, which I really enjoyed with the pork. On the bright side, it did buy me some time and cause me to slow down my eating, as I tend to eat on the fast side.
(The two photos on top are the main courses.)
After finishing the pork we were presented with dessert menus to contemplate. Now, if you do not already know, I love me a cheese plate and this is my PREFRENCE at the end of the meal and/or before my dessert.
NO CHEESE PLATE.
And that's ok...sometimes it's just not an option and one must move on. So we did to the flourless chocolate cake (with crème anglaise) and "Steve's Key Lime Pie" (Steve is a local who is THE key lime pie maker). All of the desserts, three in total on the menu, are fairly priced at $6. I loved the Key Lime Pie and my husband the flourless-ness.
What really sealed the deal that night was my after dinner drinks. I spied and Amaro Lucano behind the bar while waiting our table. I had that. Though I wish I did not because AFTER we had that someone dropped a gift off at the table. A glass of the Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc late harvest from Chile and the Marolo Grappa and Chamomile.
Both were delicious. My husband suggested I choose one - the grappa. What an absolute delight. It was fragrant and tender. I should have just taken the bottle. Side note: the gentleman who served the drinks gladly went over and brought the bottles to me (bottles pictured above) and a copy of the dessert menu with check marks next to what I was drinking for me to take home.
It was little gestures like that and the one at the bar when I arrived that showed me the people at The Good Fork really care about hospitality and service. Perhaps this is why my server's attitude and overwhelmed presence did not ruin the experience entirely. When I met the chef/co-owner after the meal I thanked and congratulated her and complimented her on the food. She immediately asked, "How was the service? Was the service alright?"
This made my heart smile.
The food coming from the kitchen has soul. If I lived in the neighborhood I would be really happy that it opened. Living in a city with so many dining options it is difficult to gauge good, not good, superior. Is it five-star dining? No? Is it trying to be? No. It is solid, tasty fair that accomplishes a feeling of home and satisfaction for those of us NOT reared on pan-seared scallops and braised Berkshire pork. It does so sans pretension and avec coeur.

Friday, June 09, 2006

A Short List...



...in case you are wondering, of where I want to eat: (these listings do not include French Laundry, Le Bernadin, Jean Georges, etc. as I am trying to set somewhat realistic goals for myself this year)
1. Il Buco
2. Peasant (went to a wedding there- HANDS DOWN BEST WEDDING FOOD EVER)
3. L'Impero (taking Shorty here for his birthday August '06)
4. Pearl Oyster Bar
5. Dani
6. Red Cat
7. Grammercy Tavern (front room, please)
8. Uovo
9. Marys Fish Camp
10. Esca
11. Chestnut
12. Ici
13. Adrienne's Pizza Bar
14. Luz
15. Vini Alioli(?)
16. Sorrel
17. Anthony's
18. Tommasso's
19. Al Di La
20. Savoy
21. Manducati's
22. August
23. Snack Taverna
In no particular oder, mind you.
(photo by: LTD, @The SpottedPig, November 2005)

Now That I Have Yor Attention...

For the past couple of weeks I have been reading sterling reviews of a new restuarant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn called Dressler. Most recently read was Mr. Frank Bruni's in, of course, The New York Times. Many people who know me already have an idea of my opinion of Mr. Bruni, I mean, of his reviews, as I do not know him personally. Week after week it is ALWAYS SOMETHING with this man. And this week it is no different. TWO STARS. TWOOOOO STARS.
The review itself did not at all read like the review of a two star "joint". On top of that IT IS JUST NOT. I digress...
Now, my feelings on Frank's review is another story, literally. What I am most confused about is the RAVES that Dressler is recieving. I am a wee bit puzzled, to say the least. I went there, granted, I went a couple of weeks into it's opening... I am sick of that being an excuse for ANYTHING at this point..., and I was, well, disappointed. I can see where it could be good but I just do not agree with the press. Surprise, surprise!!!
The design is LOVELY. I very much enjoyed sitting at the bar looking at the snails and little creatures in the beautifully crafted decor. What I did not enjoy was the minimum knowledge of the wine list the bartender had and the lack of enthusiam. It is not rocket science, people, and if you are opening a place like this one, please inform your staff about 1. HOSPITALITY and 2. FOOD AND BEVERAGE knowledge.
Following my less than experience at the bar we got our table and everything was made better on the beverage portion of the evening. I decided to change my varietal and the waiter offered to LET ME SAMPLE the wine with a PRESISE, BRIEF and ON POINT description of it. THANK YOU! And there it was, a great red by the glass. DONE.
Onto the food portion of the evening:
(FYI: One of my dining companions that night is a chef- and the kitchen knew.)

We ordered a lot of dishes one of them being the one that has been mentioned in most reviews I have read thus far, the one with the potato galette. Very delicious- like a nod to the neighborhood. It was the stand out of the evening. Our halibut was cooked like my mother made it-for once that is not a good thing. It was WAYYYYYYYYYYYY overdone.
I am not a food critic, I am not CLAIMING to be a food critic, mind you.
"I'm just sayin'"
I don't understand the hype. I can see what the hype is about but I am just not getting it with the menu.
I cannot concentrate on writing anymore, as I am STARVING. I will return to this topic again, I'm sure. My point: not TWO STARS.

I Have Arrived.


I have a really big mouth. Over the years, with a lot of therapy, I have learened to curb what goes in and what comes out if my mouth. I am, however, no less opinionated and hungry than I was before.
I love food. I love everything about it. I love where it comes from, I love eating it with other people- in fact, that is really the only time I like to have others around me. I love cutting food and peeling food. I love to look at food- food shopping, food in magazines. I love to read about food, I love to photograph food. I love planning meals, I love counting points (for those of you in the club). I love trying new foods, I love reading menus, restuarant reviews, cookbooks. I LOVE to yell at my computer screen or throw the Dining Out section of the NY Times across the room, or whatever periodical I am reading at the moment. Every waking moment I have I am thinking about food.
What will I have for breakfast...in two weeks when I wake up in Spokane, Washington? Where will I go for dinner...in July in Raleigh, North Carolina? Where is the pig whose pork chop I will eat when I am in North Carolina going to come from and how was it raised? Where should I go with Russ for dinner...in San Francisco May 2007? What am I going to make for dinner for Father's Day in nine days? Where did my strawberries I ate for breakfast today come from? When will I have enough $ to join the Slow Food movement in NYC? What time is my dinner reservation tonight? What time should I eat lunch so I will be hungry for dinner later this evening? I could keep going...
I have hit my boiling point! I am tired of sitting back reading what everyone else had to say about food. WHEN IS IT MY CHANCE TO SHINE????
IT BEGINS TODAY...
Anything that I write about in here-pens, radiators, lip balm, eyeglasses-it will all come back to food. Because everything in my life revolves around it.
MANGIA!